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If you didn’t already knew, pH is the measure of hydrogen ions ina solutioin. To put it more simply pH of a solution talks about its acidity or alkalinity. pH is measured on a scale of 1-14, with 7 being the neutral. Distilled water has a pH of 7. If the water in yyou pool shows a reading below 7, it’s acidic. If the reading shows above 7 it’s basic or alkaline.

Though 7 is supposed to be pH of water, most well maintained swimming pools have a pH of 7.4-7.6. Yes, slightly alkaline. This range is the most comfortable one for human eyes. This range also provides for optimum use of free chlorine while maintaining water that is not corrosive or scale forming.

If pH is too low (below 7)

* Water becomes acidic
* Chlorine residuals dissipate rapidly
* Eye irritation occurs
* Plaster walls are etched
* Metal fittings, pump impeller, heater core may corrode
* Dissolved metals may leave stains on walls
* Rapid Loss of alkalinity

If pH is too high (above

* Chlorine activity is slowed and inefficient
* Scale formation and discoloration of pool walls
* Water becomes cloudy
* Filter is overworked
* Eye irritation may occur

pH Adjustment
To avoid the problems listed above, pH must be maintained between 7.2 and 7.8. The most desirable level for pH is between 7.4 and 7.6. If pH is too low – run alkali demand test if available. pH of your swimming pool water can be raised by adding soda ash. Never add more than 2 lbs per 10,000 gallons in a single treatment. Make sure the pool pump is running when chemicals are added. Allow to recirculate then retest to determine if further treatment is necessary. Caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) is sometimes used with chemical feed pumps to raise pH. If problems with low pH persist, it may be necessary to raise total alkalinity to stabilize the pH.

Soaking the cartridge in a TSP (trisodium-phosphate) or similar solution prior to hosing will improve your cleaning. Do not use TSP if you utilize Baquacil or Soft Swim for sanitation.

Use of a clarifier or Chitin product like Sea-Klear is a great help to a cartridge filter. Some people also increase the filter efficacy by adding a small amount of synthetic filter aid powder (1 – 2 cups) through skimmer. D.E. powder is not recommended by most manufacturers, as it can clog the pores of the cartridge.

Disposal/replacement of the cartridge, its difficulty in maintenance (no backwashing), and its low efficiency are the reasons I don’t recommend these filters for use in most larger swimming pools. But for pools under 30,000 gals., there are some nice filters like the Hayward C-4000 that can really be a great filter.

Filter Cartridge Replacement:

Right off the shelf for $40 – $100, depending on its size. No professional labor needed.

Plunger replacement:

Varies by manufacturer. Around $90, plus 1 hour labor.

Filter replacement:

D.E. filters are more expensive than sand filters. You may want to replace if your filter is old and tired, or you may decide to upgrade efficiency from a sand or cartridge filter. Price varies by manufacturer.

Cartridge filters:

Filter of choice for most spas, and many smaller above ground pools, the cartridge filter is enjoying a resurgence in popularity. The cartridge filter element, an aquatic version of the pleated air cleaner in your car, traps dirt and particles of 25 – 100 microns in size. The cartridge is removed from the tank and hosed thoroughly, top to bottom, with a high pressure hose to remove dirt when the pressure gauge rises 8 – 10 lbs. above its clean reading. I know some people that take their cartridges to the local self serve car wash place for cleaning. Each time the filter is cleaned, some of its filtering ability is reduced. The cartridge should be replaced every 2 – 5 yrs, depending on the work it was asked to do. If the filter was a bit undersized, and had some algae every year and lots of tree debris, etc. then it may last only 1 – 2 years. Nicely sized cartridge filters can operate for 6 months between cleanings.

Filter Grid replacement:

Grids and manifolds vary by manufacturer, and can be expensive. $25 per grid; up to $100 for a manifold. Labor is usually under one hour.

There’s another way out if you don’t want to spend on torn grids. If handy with an awl, torn grids can be sewn instead of replaced.

1. Filter – Keep it 99%, except when you are backwashing, wasting or rinsing.

2. Rinse – This setting should be used for 20 seconds after backwashing the filter to rinse the tank.

3. Recirculate – This should be used if the filter is broken.

4. Backwash – This setting should be used to reverse the flow of water and send it out the waste line. Make sure the valves are closed and the hoses rolled out.

5. Closed – If youy have to work on the equipment, you wouldn’t want water from the pool coming in. Use this setting to close the flow of water from the pool. Never operate the pump with the valve in closed position.

6. Drain – This setting would send the water out the waste pipe. This is a filter bypass setting and is used to lower the level of water in the pool or to vacuum to waste.

How to backwash a D.E filter with a multiport valve?

1. Shut down the Pool Motor

2. Press down the handle of the valve and change the valve setting from FILTER to BACKWASH.

3. Make sure you’ve rolled out all backwash hose and opened all waste line valves.

4. Now open the air bleed assembly on the filter and turn the pool pum on.

5. Check the pressure gauge for back pressure and make sure the hose doesn’t have any kinks.

6. Run the pump motor until the water runs clear which should take around 2-3 minutes.

7. Now turn off the motor and and move the multiport valve handle to RINSE position and keep it for 15-25 seconds.

8. Now shut off the motor and move the multiport valve handle to the FILTER setting.

9. The last step is to switch the pump back on and note the loewr pressure on the pressure guage. Roll up the backwash hose.

Steps to Backwash a sand filter with slide valve:

1. Shut down the motor and roll out the backwash hose if you have one.

2. Unlock the plunger T-handle and pull it upwards 2-3″

3. Open the air bleeder assembly on the pool filter and switch on the pool pump.

4. Make sure the hose is free of kinks and check the pressure in the pressure gauge [+40PSI]

5. Shut off the motor after the water runs clear in the hose.

6. Push back the T-handle into LOCK setting.

7. Switch on the pump and roll back the backwash hose.

If your D.E filter is of proper size it should run error free for at least 4 weeks before you need to backwash it. A D.E filter run of less than 4 weeks indicates that the filter size is not appropriate or there’s a problem with the filter.

If you have a push-pull valve or a slide valve, you can have leaks through the top of the index plate or out of the backwash line. All you need to do is locate the right o-rings and replace them. The bulkhead union where the valve attaches to the side of the filtyer can also have leaks. Leaks are alo common around the threads of a top mounted multi port. The drain plug can cause problems if not properly sealed.

A leaking valve shouldn’t take more than one hour of your time. All you need to do is check out the internal components, gaskets and springs.

How to replace a Pool Filter?

Did anyone tell you Pool filters last forever? Well, they don’t. That doesn’t mean you’ve got to replace them pretty often though. You should replace your pool filter if your current filter is 15-20 years old and it’s difficult to get its spare parts. You should also order a new filtyer if your filter tank has cracked. This can be attributed to freeze damage or from closing off return valves while the pump is running. Replacement of Pool Filters isn’t at all difficult. All you need is access to a couple of plumbing fittings.

Price of sand filters depends entirely on the size of flter ou choose.

A thing or two about Diatomaceous Earth (D.E.)

D.E filters are undoubtedly the most efficient of the lot. You can expect a D.E filter to trap dirt particles in the range of 3-5 microns. Particles that size aren’t visible to the normal eye. as with sand filters, D.E filters also need a cleaning when the pressure guage reads 8-10 lbs, higher than clean reading. In case of D.E filters you will need to add D.E filter powder to the filter by pouring into the skimmer. To thoroughly clean D.E filters you would need to open up all components and clean the filter grids at least once a year.

Inrteresting facts about D.E filters

As mentioned earlier D.E filters need the owner to add D.E powder to coat the filter grids inside of the filter tank. This is easily available and he powder basically contains the skeletons of microscopic sub aquatic creatures called Diatoms. When examined under the microscope the diatoms appear as tiny sponges. It is these sponges that absorb the dirst particles into them, thereby keeping your water sparkling clean.

How to replace the sand bed?

The first step towards replacing pool filter sand is to empty the existing sand. You could spread a tarp out beneath the filter drain assembly. Then remove the entire assembly, turn on the pump and step back. The pump would remove most of the sand from the filter through the drain hole. You could use another method also. Just remove the drain plug and allow the filter to drain for several hours or days. Then remove the multiport valve. Once the dome is removed, gently twist the pipe out of the way so you can access the sand.

In case of a Top Mount Multiport, you might need to cut some pipes to remove the valve. You can reconnect them later using unions and couplings. Once you’ve cut the pipes, the clamp band binding the valve to the filter gets removed and the valve comes off straight. Now cover the standpipe with tape so you don’t spill sand in it. Now you can scoop out the sand inside the filter using a small cup.

Be careful not to knock the laterals at the bottom of the tank. They tend to get brittle with age and it’s advisable to replace them when you replace the sand. Wash out the sand beneath the laterals using a hose. When the tank is empty of sand, replace the drain assembly, using silicone sealant on the threads. Now add enough water to cover the laterals so that the new sand doesn’t crack them. Cover the stand pipe if you have a top mounted multiport. In case of a side mounted pool filter valve, gently move the intake pipe to one side or wrap the baffle with a plastic sheet so the sand doesn’t get into it while pouring.

Now you’ll have to pour the sand in. Use #20 silica sand,45-55 mm in diameter. Make sure that the hub assembly remains in the center in case of a top mounted multiport swimming pool filter. It is advisable to let someone hold the stand pipe in position while you’re adding the sand.

Do not overfill it with sand. If you’re not sure of the amount of sand that should go in contact us and we’d be happy to be of help. Once you’re done with the refilling, put the lid back in place securely.

when you restart the filter start up on RINSE mode first [in case of a multiport valve]. Backwash and rinse again. If you have a push-pull valve,back wash first to prevent a lot of sand dust going into the pool after replacing the sand.

1. Filter – Keep it 99%, except when you are backwashing, wasting or rinsing.

2. Rinse – This setting should be used for 20 seconds after backwashing the filter to rinse the tank.

3. Recirculate – This should be used if the filter is broken.

4. Backwash – This setting should be used to reverse the flow of water and send it out the waste line. Make sure the valves are closed and the hoses rolled out.

5. Closed – If you have to work on the equipment, you wouldn’t want water from the pool coming in. Use this setting to close the flow of water from the pool. Never operate the pump with the valve in closed position.

6. Drain – This setting would send the water out the waste pipe. This is a filter bypass setting and is used to lower the level of water in the pool or to vacuum to waste.

How to backwash a sand filter with a multiport valve?

1. Shut down the Pool Motor

2. Press down the handle of the valve and change the valve setting from FILTER to BACKWASH.

3. Make sure you’ve rolled out all backwash hose and opened all waste line valves.

4. Now open the air bleed assembly on the filter and turn the pool pum on.

5. Check the pressure guage for backpressure and make sure the hose doesn’t have any kinks.

6. Run the pump motor untill the water runs clear which should take around 2-3 minutes.

7. Now turn off the motor and and move the multiport valve handle to RINSE position and keep it for 15-25 seconds.

8. Now shut off the motor and move the multiport valve handle to the FILTER setting.

9. The last step is to switch the pump back on and note the loewr pressure on the pressure guage. Roll up the backwash hose.

Steps to Backwash a sand filter with slide valve:

1. Shut down the motor and roll out the backwase hose if you have one.

2. Unlock the plunger T-handle and pull it upwards 2-3″

3. Open the air bleeder assenbly on the pool filter and swith on the pool pump.

4. Make sure the hose is free of kinks and check the pressure in the pressure guage [+40PSI]

5. Shut off the motor after the water runs clear in the hose.

6. Push back the T-handle into LOCk setting.

7. Swithch on the pump and roll back the backwash hose.

If your filter is of proper size it should run error free for at least 4 weeks before you need to backwash it. A filter run of less than 4 weeks indicates that the filter size is not appropriate or there’s a problem with the sand in the filter.

Though the preference of pool filters largely varies from region to region, I would prefer to have a large cartridge filter over a small D.E filter. size does matter when it comes to pool filters. You’d not want your pool to end up being one from the 70′s and 80′s, which have filters too small for the size of the pool they filter. So instead of stressing more on brand, name, color and type of filter, put stress on the size of the filter and also on the durability. Poolfiltercartridges.biz has excellent pool filters from renowned manufacturers and you’d get any size you want, not to mention the impeccable quality.

Sand filters

The good part about sand filters is that their efficiency increases as they work more. The sand present in sand filters is #20 silica sand and is specially graded to trap dirt and unwanted particles in the 20 – 100 micron range. When you have a reading of 8-10lbs on your pressure guage over its clean start up reading, you’ll have to backwash the dirt in the sand filter.
Usually the send bed needs to be changed every seven years. It is dificult to notice the gradual decline in sand filter performance, but if your sand filter needs frequent backwashing, chances are the sand in it is either mudballed or channeled. Calcification might be an issue as well. Water balance problems also might affect the performance of your sand filter. If you have a large sized filter you shouldn’t be required to change sand before 10 years of usage.

If you are using Biguanide Chemicals, your pool filter might require annual cleaning to prevent it from gumming up. High amounts of bather oil can lead to gumming up of the sand bed. Years of pump forcing water through the sand pool filter might wear out the sharp edges of the sand particles, thereby reducing dirt trapping efficiency.

It is always advisable to maintian a perfect balance between sanitation, filtration and circulation to keep your pool sparkling. If any one of these factors is not taken care of properly, the water in the pool wouldn’t look sparkling. Most often the problem arises from grossly undersized pool filters. The new mantra in swimming pool filtration “go big early”. Buy the biggest filter on the shelf and let your worries go to sleep.

You might add a litle bit of “alum” through the skimmer. This will form a gelatinous layer on the sand in the pool filter and help in maintaining the “sparkle” in the water. Addition of a small amount of D.E powder or for that matter any filter medium can help you achieve the same results.