My heater will not ignite

1.

Is the system switch on?
2.

Is the thermostat up to temperature?
3.

Is the pump running with a clean filter less than or equal to 16 psi on pressure gauge?
4.

Is the gas valve in the on position?
5.

Is the pilot lit?
6.

Is the gas supply valve open?
7.

Are all plumbing and filter valves open?
8.

If a bypass is installed, is it properly adjusted?
9.

Contact a qualified technician if you still cannot find the problem.

The pilot won’t light?

This could be due to low gas pressure, inadequate air supply, or improper venting. Make sure gas is turned on; with propane, make sure the tank has fuel. Also check for water run-off from roof or sprinklers. Check to make sure the heater pilot tubing is intact and not clogged.

Heater won’t reach the desired temperature?

The thermostat may be set too low. If the heat loss is greater than the heater input – the heater may be too small, outside air temperature is too low, or your heater may have inadequate gas supply. You may want to install a solar cover to slow heat loss. All heaters have high limit switches to prevent overheating. A faulty high limit switch could shut off the heater, or the problem could be that the heater is truly overheating, perhaps from improper exhaust.

The heater cycles on and off before it reaches the desired temperature?

Your heater may have inadequate water flow due to a dirty filter, closed valve, external bypass, reversed water connections, or pressure switch out of adjustment. It is also possible that your thermostat is out of calibration or needs replacing.

Why do I need to frequently relight my pilot?

See previous two questions for additional information. Also check for water run off from above or sprinklers directed at heater. A high wind stack may be needed due to heater location.  Millivolt models have a thermocouple or pilot generator that may be faulty or weak. Loose or rusty connections of the thermocouple to the gas valve or loose coil connection, or short in these wires can shut off a pilot.

I hear “clicking” or “sparking,” but my heater will not ignite…..

Review to the pool heater owner’s manual. If you do not find your answer, turn the heater off and contact a qualified service company. Make sure that the gas valves are all in the on position, and if LP (Propane), check the gauge on the tank.

The heater is leaking water?

The pool heater heat exchanger may be leaking because of chemical or sanitizer damage. The damage may be from winter freeze – usually leaking upon spring start-up. There could be a gasket leaking, or a loose connection to the pressure switch.

The heater appears to leak only when the burner is lit…..

This may be caused by condensation (occurring when heating very cold water); a missing or damaged bypass; or excessive water flow through the heater from an oversized pump. Check the heat exchanger for sooting, and make sure the internal bypass is working. Install an external pool heater bypass if necessary.

Heater top blackened and/or emitting dark exhaust?

Either low gas pressure and/or inadequate air supply and venting, review the installation requirements in the pool heater Owner’s Manual.  Both conditions may need to be evaluated by a qualified service technician. This is called sooting and could lead to other problems.

The heater has damage due to excessive heat. Why?

One, or a combination of the following: low gas pressure, down-drafting, air supply, and venting. The heater may need a high wind stack, if installed near a vertical wall or windy area. Make sure that the heater is installed with proper clearances all around the outside. Pool Heaters can catch adjacent structures on fire.

I have rust returned into my pool?

Sanitizers or chemical imbalance can deteriorate protective coatings on heater components and create rust. Re-balance chemicals and replace damaged components. Make sure any chemical feeders are installed after the heater, and place a check valve between the two to prevent backflow.

admin | Swimming Pool Problems | 11 23rd, 2009 | No Comments »

1. Make sure to clean the pool as best possible by brushing the walls & floor & then the next day vacuuming the pool well.
This will make sure that there is not algae & bacteria living in a film on the walls & floor of the pool.

2. Give the pool a good chlorination to at least 10.0ppm of chlorine, do this preferably with calcium hypochlorite or liquid chlorine (Sodium Hypochlorite).
Keep the filter operating during this period.
For each 10,000 US galls or 40,000 litres of volume in your pool.
If you use the calcium hypochlorite, then use 1.5 lbs (750gms) of product & if you use the liquid chlorine, then use 6 US pints (3.2 litres) of liquid.
This will burn off any algae spore or bacteria which may be in the water.
The reason for using the powder or liquid is that both raise the pH & you are best to keep the pH up to about 7.8-8.0 during winter to stop algae growth.

3. After 24 hours, when the chlorine level has come down, add a good quality concentrated algicide to the pool in the dosage recommended for winterizing on the lable. DO NOT ADD THE ALGECIDE WHILE THE CHLORINE LEVEL IS HIGH. (See end of email for supplier in USA)

4. If you have a cover, then cover the pool

5. Filters & Pumps.

If you have a SAND filter,, then give it a good backwash while the chlorine level is high & this way it will kill any algae spore or bacteria which may be in the filter sand.
Once it is clean, switch off the pump & if there is the chance of freezing, then drain the filter tank.
If you have a CARTRIDGE filter, then remove the cartridge & give it a good clean & leave it to dry in a safe place, if there is the chance of freezing, then drain the filter tank.

If you have a DIATOMACEOUS EARTH filter, then take the tank appart & remove the pads & give them a good clean, scrub them with a light brush if necessary. Then leave them to dry, if there is the chance of freezing, then drain the filter tank.

ALWAYS LEAVE FILTER VALVES IN “WASTE” OR “BACKWASH” POSITION SO THAT ANY ICE FORMING IN THE PIPES CAN EXPAND.
THE REASON THAT I SAY TO LEAVE THE PADS OUT OF THE DE FILTER & THE CARTRIDGE OUT OF THE CARTRIDGE FILTER IS TO STOP ALGAE OR FUNGUS GROWING ON THEM WHEN THEY ARE NOT OPERATING OR BEING DESTROYED BY ICE.

Clean the strainer in front of the pump to make sure any leaves are out & if you live in an area where the water freezes, then empty the water out of the pump.

6. If you have run the filter for the correct time after adding the chlorine, then the pipes should be clean of any algae & bacteria.

7. If you live in an area where the water freezes, then isolate the pipes from the pool.
You will need to plug the pipes in the pool with rubber expandable plugs available from most pool shops.
It may also be necessary in some areas to have the pipes drained, you will normally need a service to do this with compressed air after they have plugged the pipes from the pool.

For an excellent quality winterizing algaecide, if you live in the USA call The John Girvan Company on 1-800-356-6460 please tell them I suggested you call them & ask them about their products & where their nearest agent is to you.

admin | Swimming Pool Problems | 11 23rd, 2009 | No Comments »

Firstly a green pool indicates a high concentration of Algae. Algae is a pest organism that is always present, to some extent, in your swimming pool.

Algae can become resistant to normal levels of chlorine and can then breed rapidly if the conditions are right.

The conditions that promote algae growth are:

1)Low chlorine levels

2)Warm water

3)A food source (phosphates)

Simply fitting a solar pool cover will not make the pool go green. However, because solar covers will warm the water, they can accelerate algae growth.

You need to change the pool conditions to prevent algae growth.

Many people have the same problem after adding a pool cover. The best solution is to try using algae starver. This product removes the phosphate build up from the pool and the algae starves. You then filter the pool for a longer period to remove the algae spores. The poolcover means that you are not topping up the pool with water and  so you are not introducing more algae to the pool.

admin | Swimming Pool Problems | 11 23rd, 2009 | No Comments »

What testing method should you use?

You don’t have to be a chemist to keep your pool sparkling clean. To keep things simple, use a testing method that you find fast, easy and convenient. That way you’ll be more likely to stick to your testing regimen. There are two basic types of testing method used by most consumers: test strips and liquid kits.

* Liquid kits require that you put a sample of water into a plastic comparator and then carefully add drops of chemical reagent, watching for a change in the colour of the sample. Liquid kits with the reagent OTO were once widely used to measure chlorine, but they have fallen out of favour in recent years. OTO measures only total chlorine, not free chlorine, which is the form of chlorine most effective in sanitizing your pool. In addition, we now know that the chemical reagent in the OTO-type kit can cause cancer.

Kits using the liquid reagent known as DPD do measure free chlorine. However, if you test for free chlorine using a DPD #1 liquid test kit, be aware that high levels of combined chlorine, or chloramines, can cause false-positive results when testing free chlorine. Substances such as monopersulfate (used for shock-treating pools) can also affect the results of the DPD test by causing a false positive reading. Moreover, the DPD test requires careful technique and several steps to get the best results.

* Test strips, the easiest method for pool and spa water testing, are fast and simple to use because they eliminate the need to measure samples and count drops. Typically, you simply dip a strip in the water for one second and then remove it. You then compare the colour on the strip to the colour chart on the label.

Industry and water quality experts report that test strips are comparable in accuracy to liquid kits. In fact, many believe they actually deliver greater accuracy than liquid kits because they require less technique. Many local and state health departments now recognize  test strips as an approved testing method. This means that professional pool and spa service technicians as well as other industry experts trust the accuracy of  pool and spa test strips. Today there are reliable test strips available to test a wide variety of pool conditions, including cyanuric acid and total dissolved solids as well as free chlorine, pH and total alkalinity.

No matter what type of test kit you decide to use, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations to get the best results.

Q:  Why do my Test Strips read 0ppm for free chlorine, while my DPD test shows a free chlorine reading?
A:  If there is a high level of combined chlorine in your pool or spa, it is likely the DPD test is showing a false positive for free chlorine and your  Test Strips are giving an accurate reading.
Q:  Do I need to test as frequently with test strips?
A:  Yes. We suggest testing both ends of the pool a minimum of 2 times per week, and spas before each use
Q:  Is DPD more accurate?
A:  The DPD test for chlorine can be affected by interferences, such as an over-abundance of monochloramines or potassium monopersulfate (used for shock-treating pools). These can give a false positive reading for free chlorine with the DPD chemistry. Recognized technical studies are available to support these claims. In addition, the DPD test requires careful technique and several steps to get the best test
Q:  How accurate are test strips?
A:  Test strips are at minimum comparable in accuracy to liquid colour comparator tests. Because test strips are more convenient, we believe they actually deliver greater accuracy. They reduce the chances of human error associated with liquid kits, which require measuring samples and counting drops of reagent

admin | Swimming Pool Problems | 11 23rd, 2009 | No Comments »

Reasons why a pool cleaner is not performing correctly:

* Is the filter clean? A dirty or blocked filter will seriously affect the performance of any cleaner. Sand should be changed every 5-6 years, and cartridge elements every 3-4 years, sometimes earlier. If in doubt try the cleaner with the sand filter on “By-Pass” or remove the cartridge element completely and see if this fixes the issue.
* Are the skimmer & pump leaf baskets clean? Check for splits in the baskets as well. A split basket can cause debris to get caught in the pump impellor reducing water flow.
* Periodically inspect parts for wear. The flexi-foot, disc and defector wheel are the most critical. As the disc wears, it begins to curl at the outer edges. When the depth of the channels between the treads on the flexi-foot are 3mm or less, replace the flexi-foot
* Is debris blocking the passage through the cleaner or jamming the flapper valve? If so, you may be able to remove the debris from the bottom of the cleaner using a finger. Remove all debris and rinse.
* Check or listen for a leaking/split hose and replace as necessary.
* For diaphragm cleaners, remove and inspect the diaphragm. Carefully check for splits and replace if necessary.
* Make sure the hose weight is in the correct position. The cleaner should be sitting flat on the pool bottom.
* Check your vacuum plate. Make sure it is in the correct way and sealing correctly around the outside and is not cracked.
* Adjust the speed control valve as necessary. TIP: Optimising water flow does not mean maximizing flow through the cleaner. Excessive suction may make your cleaner hug the base or the pool walls. In fact, to ensure a random pattern of travel that will enable the pool cleaner to reach all areas of the pool, it is better to use less suction, not more.
* If your cleaner does not go to the opposite end of the pool, try adjusting the return eyeballs up and away from the cleaner. The water pressure can force the cleaner away from this end. You can also add 1 or 2 extra lengths of hose. Also try twisting the hose lengths 1/2 a turn where they join . This will alter the random pattern. Any cleaner depends very much on the hose and how it’s set up & connected to determine it’s pattern on the pool floor.
* Remove your Automatic Pool Cleaner from the pool before chemical ‘shock’ treatments, and only reinstall it after a minimum of four hours.

If you follow the above points your cleaner should perform to its optimum.

NOTE: Due to the harsh environment in which your pool cleaner operates, your Automatic Pool Cleaner may discolor during normal use over a period of time – this however will not effect the cleaning performance of your unit

admin | Swimming Pool Problems | 11 21st, 2009 | No Comments »

Firstly when a motor buzzes, do not let it go for too long. You should turn it straight off as you can burn out the electric motor. It turns itself off because the overload device in the motor has heated up and it trips out. Not good for a motor.

Does the motor sound noisy when it does run?

If so you could have a tight bearing. Take a look under the motor for corrosion as the shaft seal maybe leaking causing water to enter the motor and resulting in a seized bearing. Or you could also have debris binding the impeller. This is often caused by debris going through a hole in the pump basket, so check and clean out both the skimmer & pump baskets. You can check if the motor is free to turn by inserting a screwdriver through the rear end on the electric motor. There is a slot in the end of the shaft for this purpose. You should be able to rotate the shaft freely. If the shaft feels tight to turn, either bearings or debris will be the problem. Debris can be removed by dismantling the pump body and cover from the impellor (diffuser) and inspecting.

If the shaft is free to turn the motor capacitor is most likely the reason for motor buzzing. The capacitor does get weak over time. Make sure the power is turned off and the plug removed from the power point. The capacitor is located under a large cover on the motor or sometimes inside the terminal box depending on the brand of motor. There could be 2 or 3 wires going to the capacitor. You should mark these wires before disconnecting them. The capacitor is measured in microfarads (uF). The common value could be 20uF of 30uF or similar. You can get your capacitor tested and/or replaced at most electric motor rewind shops or more experienced pool shops.

If all the above has been discounted, the electric motor could be “short circuited”. Again this can be tested at the rewind shop or leading pool shops.

If the pump is old and is corroded you should seriously think about a replacement as safety can become an issue as well.

admin | Swimming Pool Problems | 11 21st, 2009 | No Comments »